DIY Tub Installation.
DIY Tub Installation.
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Installing a bathtub isn't exactly rocket science, yet it does call for strong plumbing, woodworking, as well as sometimes, tiling abilities. Changing an old bathtub with a brand-new one is also a moderately difficult project. If the old tub is readily accessible, the project can move quickly; if you have to open up a wall surface to eliminate the old tub as well as position the new bathtub, the task is much harder. In either case, the task is within a residence handyman's abilities, although you will certainly require a helper to leave the old tub and set in the brand-new one. See to it you have actually certified yourself for the task and are comfortable trying it. As opposed to employing a professional to take over a halfway-completed task, it is far better to think about utilizing one before you begin. Opportunities are you might need a professional plumber to make tube connections.
This write-up will certainly assist you install a brand-new bathtub in your bathroom if you have actually already acquired a brand-new tub and also don't need to transform the arrangement of your previous water supply pipelines.
Your devices as well as product list should consist of the following:
Removing Old Taps
If you require to replace old faucets with new ones as a part of your installment, then the first thing you must do is disconnect the water. After doing so, switch on the faucets to drain any kind of water staying in the system. The procedure of removing the existing taps can be fairly troublesome as a result of the restricted accessibility that is typically the instance.
Use a container wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap device to reverse the nut that links the supply pipelines to the faucets. Have a cloth prepared for the continuing to be water that will originate from the pipes. As soon as the supply pipes have been gotten rid of, use the very same tool to loosen the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will need to quit the solitary taps from transforming during this procedure. Once the faucets have been gotten rid of, the holes in the bath/basin will need to be cleaned of any type of old securing compound.
Before going on to fit the new taps, contrast the pipeline connections on the old faucets to the brand-new taps. If the old taps are longer than the brand-new faucets, then a shank adapter is required for the brand-new faucets to fit.
Fitting New Taps
If the tails of the brand-new faucets are plastic, then you will require a plastic adapter to prevent damage to the string. One end of the adapter fits on the plastic tail of the tap as well as the various other end gives a connection to the existing supply pipelines.
If you require to fit a monobloc, after that you will need minimizing couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the basic 15mm supply pipeline.
Next off, place the faucet in the mounting hole in the bath/basin making sure that the washing machines remain in area in between the tap and the sink. Protect the faucet in position with the supplier provided backnut. Once the tap is firmly in place, the supply pipes can be linked to the tails of the faucets. The taps can either be connected by using corrugated copper piping or with regular faucet connectors. The former type must be attached to the tap ends first, tightening up just by hand. The supply pipelines can later on be connected to the other end. Tighten both ends with a spanner after both ends have actually been attached.
Mounting the Bathtub
Using the two wooden boards under its feet, put the bath tub in the called for placement. The wooden boards are practical in equally spreading the weight of the bathtub over the area of the boards rather than concentrating all the weight onto 4 tiny factors.
The following objective is to make sure that the bath tub is leveled all round. This can be accomplished by inspecting the level as well as changing the feet on the tub until the spirit level reads level.
To mount faucets, fit all-time low of the furthest flexible faucet adapter to the ideal supply pipeline by making a compression sign up with; then do the same for the other faucet.
Activate the water system as well as inspect all joints and new pipework for leakages and also tighten them if needed. Fill up the tub and additionally examine the overflow electrical outlet as well as the normal outlet for leakages.
Lastly, repair the bath paneling as explained in the producer's instruction manual. Tiling and sealing around the bath tub needs to wait till the tub has been used at least once as this will certainly resolve it into its final position.
Preparing for the Installment
To start with, the supporting frame supplied with the bathroom must be fitted (if needed) according to the producer's instructions. Next off, fit the faucets or mixer to the tub. When fitting the faucet block, it is necessary to make sure that if the faucet includes a plastic washer, it is fitted between the bathroom and the taps. On a plastic bathroom, it is likewise sensible to fit a sustaining plate under the faucets unit to prevent pressure on the tub.
Fit the flexible faucet ports to the bottom of the two faucets utilizing 2 nuts and olives (occasionally supplied with the tub). Fit the plug-hole electrical outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and afterwards pass the outlet through the hole in the bathroom. Use the nut provided by the maker to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole electrical outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.
Next off, fit completion of the flexible overflow pipeline to the overflow electrical outlet. Afterwards, screw the pipe to the overflow face which need to be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you utilize all of the provided washers.
Attach the trap to the bottom of the waste electrical outlet on the bathtub by winding the string of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and also screw on the trap to the electrical outlet. Connect all-time low of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bathroom ought to currently be ready to be suited its final setting.
Tiling Around the Bathtub
In the location where the bath satisfies the floor tile, it is required to secure the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is necessary as the fitting can move sufficient to fracture a rigid seal, triggering the water to pass through the wall between the bathroom and the tiling, resulting in issues with wetness and possible leakages to the ceiling listed below.
You can choose from a range of coloured sealers to assimilate your fixtures as well as installations. They are marketed in tubes and cartridges, and are capable of securing spaces approximately a size of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger space to fill up, you can load it with spins of soaked newspaper or soft rope. Keep in mind to constantly load the bath tub with water before sealing, to enable the motion experienced when the bathtub remains in usage. The sealant can crack relatively early if you do not take into consideration this activity prior to sealing.
Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant ceramic tiles can be utilized to border the bathroom or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and also reduce to dimension, are additionally easily available on the market. It is recommended to fit the ceramic tiles utilizing waterproof or water resistant sticky and also cement.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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